Anyway, by 1pm, we were already checked into our hotel in the city centre of Prague and were getting ready for some sight seeing. Our first activity, as per most holidays now, was to take the free walking tour of the town. This was to start at 2pm, but we were HUNGRY! It had been hours since we had scoffed our quick breakfast before the bus, and all I had eaten since then was a handful of Peanut MnMs. So luckily, Prague is quite proud of some traditional dishes and sell them from multiple stalls inside the Old Town Square. I very quickly spotted a dish of cabbage, fire roasted ham and onions called Haluski. It was really yummy, especially with a bit of mustard.
Michael chose a sausage and bread, but the sausage was a local one. It also very clearly had paprika or red spices in it so I did not try any of Michael's lunch. However, at one stage, he did take a large bite of the sausage at one end, which resulted, surprisingly, in a large explosion from the opposite end of said sausage, spraying my face and white wool scarf in bright red oil! Michael helped clean me up as I couldn't see the red all over my face, and then we had to make our way across the square to the meeting point for the tour.
Our tour guide was called Karel, and it was with him that we first experienced the unique nature of the Czech people. Karel was a really friendly but also quirky man, with a very odd way of explaining things, a cheeky catchphrase, and spoke in true Slavic style, dropping all articles from his sentences. We loved him!
In the square, the most dominating building is a large creamy fronted stately house. This is nothing amazingly special. But what towers over it from behind is the Church of Our Lady before Tỳn. This church was a focal point of the square any time of day or night. And what I loved was the gargoyly creatures that jutted out from each of the corner turrets. They turned out to be rain water drains, and the water gushes out of the mouths of the creatures, creating the appearance of a vomiting gargoyle! That is one way to tell people to get away from your building!
The later Defenestration failed to work, one of the men being thrown out the window, Philipus Fabricius, survived the 70ft fall. Of course the original argument had been related to religion and thus all the catholics rejoiced, claiming Philipus to be saved by an angel. This was good enough for the people in power to entitle him the Baron of Highfall. Much happened after and as a result of this, and soon came the Thirty Years War. During which 27 nobles and citizens were executed in the Old Town Square, their heads impaled on iron hooks and hung from the Bridge Tower to warn other citizens. Today this is remembered by the 27 white crosses paved into the footpath in Old Town Square.
Karel then led us down a side alley, passing several little places selling Prague's famous chimney stack pastry and wafting the delicious aromas.... but more on that later. We came to a stop outside the Estate Theatre, a place famous for it's beautiful internal architecture, but also for being the last standing venue that Amadeus Mozart performed in. It was said to be a favourite place for Mozart and where he first performed Don Giovanni. Outside sits a large hollow statue which is derived from the musical.
Just through the tower, we were stopped in front of a rather plain looking bank building. But Karel wanted to discuss movies. He said that many films had used snippets of Prague's beauty but only one had been filmed almost completely in Prague, making significant used of the lion and lady statue atop the bank. He gave us a chance to guess which movie, but we were all sad, shocked and slightly pleased when we learned that the movie in question was XXX - a Vin Diesel action thriller.
Continuing the walking path, we crossed over Wenceslas Square, with a stretched view up to the National Museum.
Through a few more little archways and narrow laneways and it was time for a pit stop.
The second half of the tour came to it's first stop at the famous Astronomy Clock. At that point in time we were unable to stay and watch the hourly show, but we did come back a few days later. However the Clock is a rather strange mix. The top clock face relates to early understandings of the sun, moon and earth rotations, while the bottom face is a calendar of sorts, that identifies the names which a child can be called on certain dates of the year. From memory, there is over 400 names shown around the dial, and children born in the Czech Republic must be called one of those names depending on their birth.
Around the top face is a skeleton tolling a bell who represents death, then three men representing vanity, greed and pleasure/entertainment. The statues around the lower face stand an angel and three men. At the very top there were two windows which open on the hour as the bell tolls, and the 12 apostles cycle around in the windows for the onlookers to observe, although it looks like the apostles are looking down on the crowd. At the end of the bell ringing, the golden rooster at the very top crows, and all the statues cease moving, the windows close, and the crowds suddenly disperse.
But even stranger was this statue signifying birth..... I will just leave this one here for you. I was slightly disturbed. Michael found it hilarious, as did the volunteer from our group who happily climbed inside.
(No we did not tip Karel that much, but Michael wanted a photo of himself looking rich! )
The one thing that must be said about Prague, even just from our first hours wandering the city, it was beautiful. Untouched would be the best word. Of all the historical European cities we've visited, this was the most pristine and untouched. It is said that Hitler wanted to retire in Prague and ordered that it remained relatively undamaged during the war. I would honestly believe that story to be true!
From our finishing point of the tour, we had a great view across the Mánesūv Bridge, up to Prague Castle in the setting sun! It was beautiful.
For about $20 aud, we gorged ourselves on a delicious main, a drink and a dessert each. I must say that the price of food in Prague was cheap! And great value. And yummy!
This was the dessert, a tiramisu and an apple strudel!
That night we settled down in bed shortly after 8pm, with the laptop and watched the freshly downloaded XXX. Yes, following our tour, Michael was keen to watch the terrible extreme action flick set in Prague. I must admit that it was funny, with some ridiculously over the top action stunts, but also some really cool ones. It was cool to see Prague sights throughout the film that we recognised from our earlier journey.
The following day started with a bang. Really! As I was finishing my shower, the shower head decided to fall out of its bracket and smash my foot! Michael was nearby and heard the metal head hit my foot then fling back on its cord and hit the tiles. He knew something had happened but before he could ask, out came my "Owwwwwwwww!". Instant swelling and bruising on the bone joint just below the big toe on my left foot. It was not pretty and it didn't feel great, but I was not going to let it get in the way of my short time in the country. So on went my boot and off we went.
Today was all about travelling across the Charles Bridge and seeing what was on the other side of the river.The bridge itself was beautiful with sculptures lining both side, but strangely enough, it was a unique collection of sculptures, with nothing looking like it belonged together. Different styles, subject matter and a materials (metals incorporated into the stone).
It meant for an interesting walk across the bridge.
One of the big things we saw all over Prague was puppet shops. As in Marionettes. But on this side of the river, we found some of the more up market, more expensive, but also more creative puppet makers.
At the top of the hill, we reached Prague Castle, but it was more than just one castle. It was a whole village on its own. There were dozens of big stately buildings lining a street, all leading to the main entrance of the castle. It reminded me almost of a theme park in the sense that it was so well preserved and fit a genre. Walking down the street, looking at the buildings, I thought I was just in Movie Worlds newest attraction, Prague Castle Land. 
Inside the castle grounds we were able to visit 4 venues, including St. Vitus Cathedral. This turned out to be an over the top, ornately decorated cathedral, but with some of the most amazing stained glass windows I've ever seen. Not quite as good as La Sagrada Familie in Barcelona, but more traditional, yet with stunning colours.
A really unique exhibit of Armour through the ages. We had a few really good laughs, at different elements of the costumes, including unusual features, Angry Bird costumes, the size/shape of some codpieces, and just general shapes of helmets - how on earth would they have protected someone in a battle?!?
Some of the craziest, scariest, most hair-brained concept sword/guns I've ever seen. Didn't know which element of the weapon would be most lethal, its cutting or shooting action.... but it could do both!
*As a side note, it is wonderful working in a Kindergarten with international families, I get the best holiday tips!*
Michael's dish was called Špikovaná, which was a roast beef with dumplings, cranberries and a root vegetable cream sauce. The sauce was particularly amazing and unlike anything we had tasted before.
I had Veprová, which was roast pork, with two styles of cabbage, dumplings, garlic and bacon with a sauce. It was so tender and delicious!
Best of all, even with breads to start, and a glass of wine/beer, we still only paid about $25aud for the whole meal!
It is clear that anyone and everyone just goes and adds their own little bit to the wall as they see fit. We did not write on the wall, but we found it slightly amusing to find funny things hidden in between the layers. Like the Simba symbol...
But we were in town for a reason. Tonight we had booked in to do a Beer Tour. I think this is a close second to doing the free walking tour now. When ever a local beer tour is offered, Michael wants to do it.
Surprisingly, I now enjoy them too! I've been in Germany too long!
Our tour guide for this was a young Brazilian man called Raphael, who had learnt English in Ireland, where he had worked for Guinness, thus the love of beer. He then moved to Prague after a bad break up in Ireland, and started being a tour guide. He was really lovely and very funny and friendly.
The next day was Saturday, and we had been umming and ahring about going on another tour with the same company since our arrival on Thursday. This trip was out to a place called Kutná Hora which looked really cool, and according to Google, it would take 2 hours to get there. The tour booklet said that it was a 6 hour trip, that could take longer depending on public transports. We had pretty much decided not to go because if it was 2 hours each way, of a 6 hour trip that left us only 2 hours to see Kutná Hora.
At the last minute, I looked up other tour companies to see how long their tours took, and all said that the train journey was only an hour. That made us change our minds quick smart, and we made it to the meeting point for the tour just in time! Today's tour guide was another lovely Czech man called Pavel. He was actually married to an Australian so he really liked us. Today's tour was also much better for the fact that almost all of the people in the tour group really clicked and we all wanted to chat and get to know one another. It helped of course that there were 6 Aussies on the tour! For us it was so nice to hear the Aussie accent again!
Anyway, we got underway with Pavel and walked through the streets of Prague to the main train station where we just made the train in time. Along the way, Pavel had stopped to tell us tidbits of history that would later be important, including a stop outside a very ornate synagogue.
On the train, we chatted a lot with another Australian couple, both dentists but he was in his final year of medicine, and he had just finished a 2 month stint of medical support in Thailand and India.There was also another Australian studying medicine, and he was about to commence his next year of studies in London and was on the last week of his 3 month pre-holiday. This information is important, I promise you. |
| The ceiling of the train station |
Then came Black Death (14th century) and Hussite Wars (15th century) which saw obviously thousands of deaths, thus large amounts of bodies being buried at the Sedlec cemetery. A church was built in the centre to be used as an ossuary for the mass graves.
What we then entered into is somewhat indescribable. As you step inside the doors of the Bone Chapel (Sedlec Ossuary), your first sight is of bones on the wall facing you, but then you see a large sloping staircase leading you down....
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| One of our Australian Medical friends telling everyone which bone was which. |
Almost every surface is adorned with human bones. In the centre of the lower chapel hangs a large chandelier constructed only of bones and wire, and is said to contain at least one of every single bone in the human body.There was even a shield created out of bones.
At first, one could find the whole thing a little creepy, but Michael and I were utterly fascinated. It was the most unique place I think we have ever visited.There were surprises around every corner, including this wall with writing on it, the giant letter R made only from jaw bones. But it was hidden from sight and could only be seen from one angle.
The chapel was hardly lit at all, but the few lights in place gave some eerie view points. Like the tunnel of skulls and femurs to the right.An estimated 40,000 bodies worth of bones went into the creation of the chapel, and their unusually white appearance is due to the thorough cleaning and sterilization process they went through prior to being used as decoration (you know, being that most died from Black Death....).
But Pavel had booked taxis to take everyone to the next stop, more into the town of Kutná Hora itself. This was Saint Barbara's Church, and is one of the most famous Gothic churches in Europe, a UNESCO world heritage site.
For me, yes the church was nice, but it was Pavel's story that won me over. Pavel told us about St Barbara, who was the daughter of a Pagan, who wanted to marry his daughter off to 'some guy'. Barbara didn't like this, and she told her dad that she couldn't get married, she was now a Christian. Her dad didn't like this so he built a tower and locked her in it. He did still love his daughter though so he let her have some say in the design, and she requested 3 windows instead of two as a symbol of holy trinity.
When she was praying, an opening in the tower wall miraculously appeared and she ran away. Her dad naturally came looking for her, and he found her thanks to the help of some shepherds who had seen her. In Pavel's words, the dad came across the shepherds and asked "hey, have you seen a hot pagan chick run past here?". So yes, clearly, we enjoyed the story of St Barbara!
We were told that Barbara was held captive after that, tortured and miraculously healed every morning, until her father decided to behead her himself. But after committing the act, he was struck by lighting on his way home!
Inside the church the windows were very cool, some only a few years old showing modern takes on historical religion.The ceiling was painted with flags to represent royalty and special groups within the Church. The church is also clearly decorated in dedication to the local industry of silver mining and minting.
I was really jealous of Michael's meal as he had goulash made from boar, which he said was utterly amazing, melt in you mouth. Being goulash, I couldn't try any. But I did get a taste of his Gingerbread dumplings.... delicious!I had chicken with red cabbage, gravy and jam filled potato croquettes. Also really yummy.
And for the first time in hours, I had wifi, so I was not in a hurry to walk away....
We were stopped to discuss this statue because of all the dates on the back. He has been erected and pulled down, then erected, pulled down again, and then erected once more in 1991. Apparently they have left room at the bottom of the statue for more information.... just in case.
We then caught the train back into Prague. When we got off the train, there was a statue of a man. We had already heard of this man care of Karel a few days earlier. He is known in Prague as British Shindler. His name is Nicholas Winton, and in the late 1930's, he rescued almost 700 children from Jewish families (locked in concentration camps) and found them new families and homes in Britain. He then never spoke of this and it was not until his wife found some suitcases full of paperwork about his plans in 1988 in the attic. He is now 105 years old, has been honoured by both the Queen and Prague, and has even had a tv documentary made about him. 
And of course, the night was not complete without a couple more Trdelník.
Our last day was a shorter one as we were travelling back to Munich in the afternoon. But not to let time cut our experiences short, we still got out of the hotel as quickly as possible, and headed straight back over Charles Bridge, to catch a few things we had missed days earlier.
But Michael and I did have a giggle as we watched the statues in action. We also couldn't help but discuss the potential meaning behind Cerny's choice of putting the pond into which the water pools in the shape of the Czech Republic.
This was now a David Cerny hunt, but as we ventured off to find his next piece, we were distracted by a beautifully forged metal door.
I mentioned previously that there were large sculpted babies climbing the TV tower.... well these are the same babies, but they are all a part of Cerny's 'Babies' project. These are just closer to the ground, allowing for a more indepth look at the unique structure. It is said that the babies are faceless to represent communism and how children were not able to grow and reach adulthood.
By now we knew we were short on time, so after some final shopping (I bought a Pinocchio Marionette), we stopped for lunch. After four days in Prague, we had not yet eaten a soup, something every restaurant claimed to be champion at. I ordered an asparagus soup with croquettes, but Michael got the most amazing potato soup served inside a bread. As much as I enjoyed mine, I was jealous of his, it was just so incredible.
The last photos were just of the train station, because the long escalator tunnels amused me, more so that the Munich ones (because the posters were slanted with the tilt of the escalator), and the platform itself reminded me of the Nespresso pods!
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